How Italian cuisine became American like apple pie

If you are wondering how and why food is appropriate – that is, when Americans consider
them theirs – think of the following: eating Italian food has already been considered a “slum”.
So what does it take for a foreign kitchen to melt in an American pot? We talked to Krishnend
Ray, director of the NYU Food Studies program and author of The Ethnic Restaurateur, about
how immigrants in the United States shape food culture, giving us a detailed analysis of how
cooking can go from unnoticed to the forefront; from popular to prestigious.
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In the late 19th century, Ray says most notable restaurant dishes in the United States were
Germanic: spaetzle, sausages and often served in breweries. But as a wave of Italian
immigrants began to arrive, mainly from the southern part of the country, so did their food,
which was heavy on pasta. At first, your restaurants will be ignored unless something
remarkable happens in your premises – like a crime – ray said.